Aeons of history writes itself on the walls of Old Delhi. Once subverted, today Delhi wears its heritage with pride – stories of its glory, fall, rise, resistance, and independence. The bylanes of Old Delhi speak anew as one walks through its ruined and dusty old monuments and havelis. They stand as stamped reminders of everything the city has lived through. Yet, modern retellings of Indian heritage often omit discussions of its diversity and acceptance. They hide behind the garb of “what is the Indian culture?”. This has shaped the way we remember the country’s LGBTQ+ community. Often hidden and deliberately forgotten, the Indian queer community has endured much to be seen, accepted, and respected. With that purpose in mind, Delhi Queer Heritage Walks takes you around the familiar lanes and monuments of Old Delhi with an entirely new lens. They bring insights into Delhi’s much-forgotten queer histories and icons who played unique roles in the city’s grand past.
Delhi Queer Heritage Walks by Batul Ali
At first glance, Old Delhi can feel like a place you already know: Chandni Chowk‘s chaos, the imposing presence of the Red Fort, and the poetic odyssey of Ghalib‘s tomb. But researcher and storyteller, Batul Ali, prefers to do it a little differently. Leading Delhi Queer Heritage Walks with limited groups of approximately 25 people, Ali takes the audience through tattered yet picturesque gullies of Old Delhi. Each destinationbreathes the story of a queer past and of queer icons from medieval and even further back. Each of their walks lasts for three hours, with insider tips, “did you know?” facts, and a cosy chai break.
By limiting the number of participants, Ali makes sure to keep his walks as friendly and intimate as possible. Moreover, it allows them to foster a safe space for dialogues about lives that thrived in the Mughal court and the city’s sacred shrines, way before contemporary labels existed. As the walk navigates the aged labyrinth of Shahjahanabad, the familiar monuments reveal secret and subverted identities. The walk takes you through iconic queer stops, like Sunehri Masjid, a mid-18th century mosque built by Javed Khan, a powerful khwaja-sirah or an eunuch who rose to immense political prominence. Moreover, there is a stop at the shrine of Sarmad Khashani, whom Ali lovingly refers to as a “queer martyr”. A 17th century Sufi mystic, Khashani, fell profoundly in love with a Hindu boy, transcending the rigid socio-religious boundaries of the time. Additionally, they also do delicious food walks, taking you through tangled lanes of Old Delhi, hunting for the most mouth-watering eats while telling tales of resistance, love, acceptance, and so much more of the queer community.
The Delhi Queer Heritage Walks doesn’t just look at the stone walls, but at the pulse of the community. It delves into the oral traditions of the long-rooted Hijra community and centuries-old secret subcultures. Moreover, it proves that queerness is not a modern import but is deeply rooted within the Indian cultural fabric.
Pro-tip:
Remember to wear comfortable shoes. These walks can take around two to three hours (with a break, of course). Additionally, remember to keep an eye on their Instagram page for new walks and updates. They have limited slots and may sell out within minutes.
Key Information
📍Old Delhi (depends on the walks)
💸₹ 750 onwards (Foreigners have different prices)
🎟️Book your tickets via DM here or email them at dilliqueerheritagewalks@gmail.com for inquiries and reservations